Frederick Wiseman’s 44th documentary film, Menus-Plaisirs–Les Troisgros, debuts on PBS March 22. Presented by GBH, the Zipporah Films release follows the Troisgros family in central France and their three restaurants.
It was released in limited theaters late last year.
“The words ‘Wiseman’ and ‘documentary’ have been synonyms since his first film more than 60 years ago. His films have been a mainstay of public media for 54 years, since the earliest days of public broadcasting,” said John Bredar, VP for national programming, GBH. “We are thrilled to be presenting his latest masterpiece, Menus Plaisirs – Les Troisgros. It is an intimate glimpse into how exquisite craftsmanship, artistry, creativity and collaboration define this culinary institution.”
The Troisgros restaurants, in central France, are Troisgros, Le Central and Colline de Colombia. The chef at Troisgros, César Troisgros, is the fourth generation of the family to be in charge. Founded 93 years ago, the restaurant has maintained three Michelin stars for 55 years.
“The film explores the day-to-day operations of this restaurant, from purchasing fresh vegetables at the market, visits to a cheese processing plant, a vineyard, a cattle ranch working on best farming practices, and an organic farmer whose farm, along with the garden of the restaurant, provides organic produce for the restaurants,” PBS said.
The film runs for four hours.
“A film about a restaurant aligns with my institutional series and making a film about a three-star Michelin restaurant has always been one of my fantasies,” said Wiseman. “While visiting Burgundy in the summer of 2020, I had lunch with friends at Troisgros. After the meal, I spontaneously asked Chef César Troisgros if he would consider a documentary film about his restaurant, which started the incredible journey of producing this film.”
Wiseman spoke further of the project at PBS’s TCA Winter Press Tour session in Pasadena, California. “I'm always impressed with a restaurant that has three stars. I think there are only 17 or 18 in France. And I like to eat good food,” he said.
Wiseman said he set out to make a film about the family’s restaurant business, but over time became more interested in the family dynamic.
“I'm trying to make films that reflect as wide a range of human experience as possible,” Wiseman said. “And I mean, it's just as important to make films about people who are doing a good job as people who aren't. And I want my choice of subject matter and final film to reflect that point of view.”
A review in The New York Times called the movie “absorbing from start to finish.”
